The road to Olgii was 150 km of loose dirt with some sand. The bike rode well, either because the road wasn’t that bad or I’m getting better at riding it. Probably the former, but you definitely need to be in the mood for it – and this morning I didn’t mind.

North of the mountains the scenery changed, with trees visible for the first time in 10 days. There was a fairly large river running along the road for a while, that was unexpected but impressive all the same – especially after being in the high desert for so long.

There’s some debate as to whether the road to the Russian border is tarmac or not. If it is, then I’ve got an easy run in the morning. If not, then the last 150km of Mongolia will be tough, but the light is definitely visible at the end of the tunnel!

The tarmac road ran out as I turned left, taking the pass over the mountains. The road turned to small rocks, the kind that bump steer the front and rear wheels. I could see why Sara said she didn’t like it, but it was better then sand! Ken’s monoshock has leaked all the oil out, so with no dampening he must have had a hard time funding traction.

The pass was hard work. We climbed to over 8800ft, starting from around 1500. Some of the climbs were a bit steep (I’ve never been in first gear for so long), but nothing too serious. By the time we got to the top it was raining, but not much. The views were worth it though.

There were a couple more high passes before the descent into Olgii this morning. We camped just over one of the passes, in sight of the white capped mountains. Beautiful!

Malcolm is from Scotland but lives in Melbourne with Sara. When I asked them about their trip they said “we’re just riding home – Scotland to Melbourne”. Funny that, I’m doing the same in reverse.

Like I always said, there’s nothing special doing here. Just a bloke riding home, like so many other people.

They asked if we’d meet a couple of Ozzie’s riding DR650s by any chance. Ron and Dean? Yes. We’d also met the English journalist Jamie, riding a V-Strom for a bike magazine article. So many people are traveling and we’ve met lots of them.

Nice to meet you guys, have a good trip home.

Camping by the lake was great, but we couldn’t get the bikes right down to the edge. The sand was very deep and soft. Ken had a go and got bogged down, but we managed to push him out. We parked on a dirt road and carried our stuff over.

We’d been there about 10 minutes when we spotted a couple of touring bikes on the tarmac. We waved at them and they turned onto the dirt about 2km further on. A man and woman rode up towards us taking English.

Malcolm and Sara were great to meet, good company for the night. They’d just covered the ground we’re going towards, so we swapped info on our respective ways. There’s a very high pass we’ll be on shortly, over 8000ft. The roads will be mostly rocks, sounds great fun!

True to the legend, we found the tarmac road. Not just any tarmac road, but the smoothest, straightest road I’ve ever been on. Running for 200km from nowhere to Ulaangom, I counted three cars the entire way.

The road just starts. No signs or anything. It just starts out of the dirt track, amazing. More alarmingly, going the other way it just ends. No warning, just a fantastic road that turns to dust, literally, without warning.

I’ve no idea who decides which roads get made here, but whoever it was – thank you! After 70 km or so we found a great lake, so we camped by the side of it. We watched an UAZ Jeep pull up, about the size of a Suzuki vitara. I counted a staggering 11 Mongolians get out for a swim!

The road from Songino had the worst corrugations of the trip so far. Bone jarring vibrations for mile after mile, after mile. Loosening ever nut, bolt and fastener. Best check your fillings too!

The bike itself rides better when the sand is corrugated. I find if the lines of sand run perpendicular to the direction of travel, the steering doesn’t have time to wander. The vibration is terrible, but better than the vague steering you get when lines of sand run parallel to the way you’re going. When the handlebars wander 20° either side of straight at 50km/h it’s really in nerving. Don’t throttle off or you’re down for sure!

Apparently there’s a 200km road ahead which is all tarmac. I hope that’s not an urban myth!