Copenhagen is a great city and like many places, I wish I had more time there. However, I decided to push on into Germany as the cost of living is much better there. I also discovered that there’s a ferry which drops me off near to Lübeck in Germany, so I’m taking that. (More about Lübeck later).

The road to the ferry port of Rodbyhavn was tough due to the strong headwinds. It means the engine is working harder for the same speed, and you’re working harder pushing against the breeze. Gives the neck a good workout but it’s tiring. Luckily I’m only going 300 odd km today.

I knew it would be tough when I saw all these wind farms, with the turbines pointing the same way I was going!!

Not quite as interesting as Stockholm! Lots and lots of bikes here, but not many people wearing helmets. It makes crossing the road quite challenging! Bizarre!

I’d heard a lot about Copenhagen, though what exactly I’m not sure. It was mostly from old films featuring Dick van Dyke. That and the tales of Hans Christian Andersen of course.

Armed with a map and some advice from the lady at the hostel, I set off on foot to see what it’s all about. On foot because everything is more or less walking distance, but also because my bike is parked in a forecourt. To get in I had to navigate a very posh plate glass doorway that’s not quite wide enough. I very nearly took out an entire window on the way in, so I’m not looking forward to my exit. No point going in and out unnecessarily!

But I digress. First stop was the palace where the royal guards are stationed. They protect the Danish royal family and match daily at 11:30. Unfortunately I missed the match this morning, and when I arrived I found that photos are strictly forbidden. So much for an interesting blog photo!

Next stop was the warf for a canal boat tour. It’s very petty with lots of old wooden boats, the tours are frequent and cheap too. They’re also fully booked! I’m not too bothered, the only thing I wanted to see was the little mermaid. I can walk there in about an hour, so I’ll see how much I really want to see it!!

Right now it’s fish and chips time. My tummy says yum, but my wallet says ouch!

With all that talk about ferries earlier and the miserable weather yesterday, I decided I’d take the ferry to Denmark rather than ride the extra 100km and over the bridge. Turns out that today isn’t a bad day anyway!

This is the view from the ferry, where you stay with your vehicles for the crossing. I have to say I’m a little underwhelmed! I’ve also realised the bridge I’m missing is the one that turns info a tunnel half way across the sea. Bugger. Maybe I’ll ride back over it tomorrow?

The bike shop sorted me out with new front and rear wheel bearings and fitted the chain and sprockets. Might as well do the lot while the wheels are off. Considering I’d carried the chain all this way, it’s somewhat ironic that the place I fit it has plenty in stock! Oh well, at least I can say I was prepared.

The bike is transformed! It’s like riding a sports bike! The handling had deteriorated gradually over time and I’d just got used to it. But now it’s a joy again. Wahoo!

This morning I tightened the rear axle to take the play out, but it was obvious the bearings were toast on the way to the ferry. I decided I’d limp to the nearest Kawasaki dealer about 20km away. I don’t normally like leaving my bike with dealers, but these guys seem very good. Friendly and helpful, and interested in my travels. I even got a free coffee without pretending I wanted to buy a new bike!

The mechanic is fitting new wheel bearings, the centre bearing had completely collapsed. So there you go, I officially had no balls! While the wheel is off I might as get the new chain fitted along with the sprockets.

I had envisaged doing all this myself, but since I’m here I might as well let them do it. At least my bags will be a lot lighter now! The only thing they don’t have in stock is a cush drive. I’m planning to get new tyres around Hamburg, so I’ll see if I can pre-order one to get it fitted at the same time. Oh well, things do wear out and I’ve certainly had my money’s worth out of the last set!

Oh dear, it seems I’ve got the old and new sprockets mixed up. Any ideas which is which?

The sprocket had done 48,000km. I was hoping to get 50k out of it. I guess they just don’t make them like they used to!

No photos today. It was grey and miserable when it wasn’t raining, all day. I’ve seen enough trees to last me for a while too! I decided against the ferry to Gdansk as I really want to see Copenhagen. It was tempting though, as I lay in bed this morning listening to the rain. Another day in the hostel then a ferry out of Sweden would be easy, but I pushed on into the rain.

My initial plan was to get about half way and camp by the lake. Jonkoping would have been nice. However, I’m kind of over Sweden so I just sat on the bike and let the kms click away. I stopped in Helsingborg as there’s a ferry across to Denmark. I can be away first thing and have more time in Copenhagen. Hurrah!

Unfortunately the bike didn’t quite feel right for the last few kms. I stopped a couple of times to check the tyres, chain and brakes etc.. Nothing obvious so I thought it might be my imagination. I still wasn’t comfortable though, so after I unpacked I had a good look around. I think the rear wheel bearings may have had it. There’s more play than they’re should be on the rear wheel, but that’s as far as I’ve looked.

It’s still raining and it’s dark, so maybe a job for tomorrow morning. If I can’t adjust it to something reasonable I’ll have to get new bearings and fit them. Leaving may not be as easy as I thought!! As they say in Sweden…

Jävla skit!

This might be a sad thing to admit, but one of the best things today was looking around all the bike parks. I haven’t seen many bikes for a long time, but here they’re on display all through the city. Not just new bikes, but some quite old stuff and in good condition too.

One park in particular had a CB900, 650 Savage, 536 Virago, XJ900 and K100S. It could have been any bike club outing from the 1990s, my friends all had those bikes at the time. Rose tinted specs aside, there was a drop or two of oil underneath each and every one! Oh well.

I went for a long walk today after a lie in and a long shower. I needed a break more than I thought as I’ve been tired for most of the day.

It’s hard to describe Stockholm as an epic layover on a dull Monday, but it’s been good just chilling in the city. I especially like the old part of the city in Sodermalm, plenty of great architecture to admire. I also liked the narrow streets and many tourist shops. Some very nice stuff there, but like always I need to be mindful of available space on the bike for getting things home. (No Viking swords or shields then. Bugger!).

Most cities have an Irish pub or two, but Stockholm seems to have a plethora! Fish and chips with a pint of Guinness is very temping, but equally expensive – and you just know the Guinness won’t be as good as in Ireland. I’ll think about it 😉

Outside the hostel in Stockholm was an 1150GS BMW, so I had a quick chat to the rider. He’s local and has done a few trips to Europe, so he was keen to know which way I was planning to go. I told him my plans and he said that was OK, but a more interesting way would be to take the ferry to Gdansk in Poland.

The ferry goes from Nynashamn, which is about an hour’s ride away. It takes 18 hours so I’d arrive refreshed at 1pm the next day. Unfortunately it only goes every other day, so I’d have to leave tomorrow and forfeit my layover day – or stay in Stockholm until Wednesday.

The ferry looks good and it’s quite reasonable at 960SKR. Poland is likely to be cheaper than Sweden and Denmark, which effectively reduces the cost of the ferry too. My only issue is the fact I’d be bypassing some land I could just ride through. To date all my ferries have been through necessity. I had in mind that my next ferry would also be my last one.

Decisions decisions!!