As we travel the miles the scenery gradually changes. Usually every hundred miles or so things look different, especially going north or south. Trees get shorter or longer, vegetation changes colour as the temperature varies. Mountains rise and fall, giving way to flood plains and desserts.

Russia so far has been a little different. Mile after mile of very similar scenery, probably because we’re hugging the same parallel. (The 45th I think). Eventually though we came through the swamp into very flat farmland, then on to large expanses of wetlands.

Mosquitoes love the wetlands (and me!). I counted 60 bites this morning, but it’s worth the inconvenience for experience. Or so I keep telling myself!

All roads lead home when you’re lost, or so my dad says. I suppose he’s right, as if you end up at home then you must have been on the right road. Logic eh? You’ve got to love it!

We passed a big sign and monument announcing that the road goes from Vladivostok to Moscow, which means we’re on the right road. Not too difficult as there’s only the one main road. We took a detour to Ьлаговещенск to have a quick look at China. The river separates the two countries, with many Russians going to Keihe on the ferry for a days shopping.

Unfortunately we couldn’t do that due to visa restrictions, but I can’t say I’m really bothered about missing a shopping mall in China. When you think about it, most of the stuff we buy is made there anyway!

The roads themselves are entertaining to ride, as long as you’re in the mood. The surfaces range from smooth to trash the bike and lose your fillings! It’s not uncommon for oncoming traffic to veer onto the wrong side of the road and head straight for you. It’s a bit concerning at first, until you realise it’s just other drivers avoiding a cow sized pothole. You get used to it.

Overtaking can be done at any time, anywhere and at any speed. (Though generally the faster the better). All cars tend to be driven at the same speed, which is as fast as they will go! As long as you have your wits about you, can look in all directions at the same time and have one hand on the clutch/brake, it’s not too bad.

If you’re in the mood that is….

Sasha invited us in while the storm passed by. He talked a lot and I understood a little, but it became apparent that we needed vodka to stay. The nearest shop was 15km away and we had directions, however we couldn’t all go. One of us had to take Sasha, so I dumped my gear and off we went.

Breaking all the rules of adventure motorcycling, I set off into the dark down a dirt road with a stranger riding pillion. It soon started to rain as we headed into the storm, brilliant flashes of orange, purple and white lightning ahead of us in the inky blackness. The rain was making the track slippery, adding to the ‘fun’.

The shop was a small cafe. Everyone stopped taking and stared when I asked for a bottle of vodka. The lady said they didn’t have any and I believed her. I told Sasha who was waiting outside. When I produced him from the darkness, eyes rolled all round. The lady shook her head and gave me a bottle from under the counter. All good!

Back at Sasha’s place we all had a drink and we talked while the rain passed. After that it was hammocks up and dinner for the boys. (I couldn’t face cooking, chocolate and tea for me!). Sasha did a lot of talking and I sensed he was a lonely old man who didn’t get many visitors.

In fact he’s only 53. With no running water or power it must be a hard life, especially in winter with the freezing temperatures. I didn’t catch everything he said, but I know he lost his only brother in some war. He makes honey to survive but it’s a poor living, he made bicycles in the past in Khabarovsk. He grows his own vegetables, which he loaded me up with before I left.

He seemed an amiable fellow, I was sorry I couldn’t talk more. Good bye and good luck, Sasha.

Sophie
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It was hard to leave Khabarovsk and our good friends, but we had some miles to do. We said our thank yous and goodbyes and were on or way. Mother Russia pulled a marvellous day out of the hat for us. 30° and sunny, but with a very high cirrus layer to stop us burning.

The roads were pretty good, which made 400kms easy to do. Just the odd section of gravel for roadworks, which I’m getting used to and even starting to enjoy! Around 8 pm we started to look for wild camping spots. A few places looked promising but already had occupants. It was getting late and a storm was brewing.

At the end of a likely looking track we found a dwelling, where an old man came out to greet us. I thought it was worth saying hello and asking if we could camp there. Sasha turned out to be quite friendly and before we knew it we were all drinking tea in his alfresco kitchen. At this point we weren’t sure whether it would be OK to stay.

It got a bit more interesting when he went to fetch his shotgun to show us, but he explained that he’d seen some Siberian tigers yesterday. (Albeit small ones). Chip and Ken seemed a bit concerned about them, but I’ll be amazed if we see one.

I pressed the point on whether we could camp there, and said we could pay. He wasn’t interested in money, but did we have any vodka? Unfortunately we didn’t, which is where it got a bit more interesting!

In the evening we planned to go camping. Phil had been told of a good spot and we were game. It took us over an impressive 2 km long bridge across the river Амур. Not the longest but the widest river in Russia, quite a sight.

We were late getting there so all the good spots were taken. We did some serious off roading before we gave it up and went back to Phil’s place. It was awesome! Phil got cracking in the kitchen cooking up some Plov, while we unloaded and spoke with his daughters.

дарья and Александра (Dasha and Sasha) both speak very good English, they’re learning at school. Dasha was especially helpful and we looked at a huge world map together, talking about the places we’d all been. Dinner was served for 10 people!

We were joined for dinner by Phil’s wife галина, лена, family friends василий and ольга. Olga is an English teacher and we had a very good conversation ranging many topics. (In English, in case you’re wondering!).

Dinner was great, Plov is tasty but there were plenty of other things to try, like a fern that’s only eaten in eastern Russia. Dasha and her friend Евгения told me the name of their favourite snack, even wrote it down for me. (But I lost the paper. Oops!).

After dinner Phil cracked the guitar out and belted out some Russian folk songs. He’s very good! Olga translated the lyrics. I knew I should have bought my banjo! Before I knew it, time for bed. Where does the time go?

In the picture, our gracious hosts Phil, Galina, Sasha, Dasha and Lena. In case you’re wondering why Phil doesn’t have a Russian name, it’s a nickname. (Technically it’s ‘Feel’). No-one I know calls him Nikolai.

I couldn’t thank them enough when I left, so if you’re reading this guys – thanks again!

Lena took us on a guided tour of Khabarovsk which was excellent. We got to see the boulevards, markets and some things that we would otherwise have missed. The churches and Lenin square were spectacular, as were some of the statues. We tried some Kvass, a Russian drink made with bread. I really like it but I think Ken wasn’t too keen!

It was very hot but everyone seemed to be out and about, doing their business as usual. One thing that’s different here is the effort everyone puts into their appearance. Every shirt is freshly laundered and ironed, every dress clean and fresh. I don’t think I’ve seen a scruffy person yet, even down the shops. It’s not like Walsall at all!!

The church here is the third largest in Khabarovsk. The second largest you could see to the west up an a hill, and we saw the largest when we arrived. So much has happened since I’m struggling to keep up! It’s been a great experience meeting lots of friendly people, absolutely brilliant.

As we rolled into Khabarovsk I stopped to take a photo. Like a lot of the Russian infrastructure I’ve seen, the gardener needs the sack! It seems they’re prepared to spend a fortune on new infrastructure, but nothing on maintaining the gardens. It’s a smashing sign but with the bush in the way you can’t read it!

We rolled into the city and found Lena after the usual navigation and traffic issues. I lost Chip and Ken in the city and they found the place first. Lena was just about to drop her husband at the airport, so she threw Ken the keys and said make yourselves at home. Considering I am a friend of a friend and she didn’t know Ken at all, that was an astonishing act of trust and generosity.

We all freshened up and when Lena returned we went out for a Chinese. Her friend Phil came along too. He showed us the huge bridge on the way to Moscow and a park he was responsible for architecting. It was all very impressive. Back at Lena’s place we had too much home made spirits and this morning (or should I say this afternoon) we’re definitely struggling!

In the morning I had to make a couple of stops at the swamp toilet. Not somewhere I’d recommend to anyone, but I’d eaten something that didn’t agree with me and had no choice. At one of those stops a loaded KTM coming the other way pulled up to a stop.

The guy came over to introduce himself. Joseph I think was German, the bike had German plates anyway. He was going to Vladivostok to catch the trans Siberian railway with his bike, onto lake Baikal and then Mongolia. We may well run into him again.

We exchanged notes on the state of the roads ahead, then went on our respective ways. One thing I’ve noticed here is that other bikers are very friendly. I’ve seen a few loaded tourers coming the other way, obviously foreigners who you expect to wave. But even the small bikes with the locals on produce big arm length waves and smiles. Nice!

We were looking to wild camp again, only this time I wanted to use the hammock. It was about time to find somewhere when I spotted a communications tower up on a hill. If I could find the access road it could be good.

We found a good track right up to the top, where a secure compound housed the generators and comms equipment for the tower. I’ve seen that before! About 50 yards down the track was a good looking spot so we setup camp.

It was awesome. We had some altitude so it was cooler, away from the swamps with a lot fewer mosquitoes. (Skeeter’s in American). We had Sergei’s home made whiskey with our dinner and I went to bed leaving Ken and Chip to their HIC-HOP.

I was soundly asleep until the boys came to wake me. A security patrol had arrived and wanted us to leave. They were at the top and would be back in 5 minutes, by which time we were supposed to be gone. I got dressed and waited for them to come down. 3 armed guys in a van.

When they did I introduced us and explained that it was both illegal and dangerous for us to ride our bikes. We we had been drinking and the legal limit was zero alcohol. The lead guy though about that for some time. I said we’d be there for one night only and would be gone at first light.

That seemed to swing it. He warned us in good English not to go to the top, and said they would see if we did on the cameras. His English was excellent, so I think a little Russian definitely goes a long way!