So much for Latvia, don’t blink or you’ll miss it! It’s small, S.M.All!

To be fair I’ve only cut the corner off it, transiting towards Kaliningrad. On the way back up to St. Petersburg I’ll spends more time there and visit the capital.

Just inside Lithuania, I found a great camping spot next to this lake. The hammock is strung up ready for a comfy night’s sleep, while the tent is pitched and drying nicely.

I stopped for lunch when I eventually found a cafe. There isn’t much on Latvia along the roadside, you have to go into a village. Ludza is a pretty little village with a couple of nice churches. The cafe was nice but I had a language problem again. No English or Russian menu and no internet, so I had to take pot luck. Flashbacks of south Korea!

“Chicken’s feet please, medium rare but cut the toenails.”

Hmm. I got a lovely ham and cheese omelette with red sauce. Wow! Red sauce! I haven’t seen that for a while. It was a great meal, just the right size too. The waitress spoke a little English, as she revealed just as I left.

Heading for Kaliningrad, I plan to stop just before the border of Lithuania and wild camp somewhere. I’m hoping to meet Chip and Ken for one last night in Lithuania tomorrow, before we go in different directions again.

It’s about 700km to the border with Latvia from Moscow. I did most of that in a day, as there’s not much to see along the way. Mostly forest and swamp at the side of the road. I wild camped in a great spot not far from the border, but it rained overnight making it a bit of a struggle to get out. Mud mud mud!

The border crossing was the usual faff, but just before lunch I exited into Latvia, the European Union! Practically home (sort of). First impressions were very similar to eastern Russia. Basic accommodation, farming and a rustic feel. I saw a sign saying there were road tolls and I realised I hadn’t got any Euros. So I swung onto a back road to a place called Zilupe, as advertised by an attractive sign.

It was a tiny little village and I knew there wouldn’t be a cash machine. In the centre was a small green with a bench, tiny shop and….. A cash machine. Bingo! (Well better then bingo, you win money every time!).

Cashed up I went onward and upward into Latvia.

On the last night we went to the Moscow state university, where all the bikers meet. Nothing actually happens there, just like minded people socialising. It was a good friendly atmosphere. There’s a great view of the city too. We met up with some of Helgi’s friends including a lady on a Hyabusa, then went for a ride to the downtown.

With very little traffic at night you can get a move on, it was good fun going around the ring roads and through the tunnels. I saw a black Lamborghini going very fast, looking for a race. Later I saw a red Ferrari doing the same. On the right bike it would be a blast racing them through the tunnels at night, though I’m not sure I have the balls for it these days. Maybe I’m getting old?

After saying goodbye in the morning I got an escort to the exit road to the border. Very useful as I’m good at getting lost! The daytime traffic wasn’t too bad, but the drivers…..

I’d been warned about crazy car drivers, ‘be very careful’ everyone says! I’ve seen a lot of Russian driving now and first impressions are that they they’re all mad. However, I realise now that isn’t a fair assessment, in general Russian drivers are very good. Moscow drivers particularly. They can really drive.

The average driver knows exactly how big their car is, and is able to drive it within an inch of the next car without making contact. They are also spatially aware, knowing who is behind them, to each side and in front. ‘Sorry mate I didn’t see you’ doesn’t apply here, as the drivers actually look properly and see bikers. In many ways much better than lazy people at home and in Oz, who just can’t be bothered to look.

However, despite this there are still a lot of accidents. I counted 8 in just 2 hours of riding. Drivers let themselves down here with their margin for error, they just don’t leave any! When something does go wrong they have no options and BANG! (Usually it’s a big bang too). If that was to change it would be pretty safe, but for now it’s eyes open and full on self preservation mode!

Be very careful!!

I felt like a bit of a tourist, but I walked around all of the usual attractions with my camera. I needn’t have worried about looking conspicuous, the entire place is teaming with people and cameras. I can see why though, it’s both impressive and beautiful! This panorama of the walls of the Kremlin is taken from one of the bridges.

I walked, and walked, and walked! All day walking after an hour or so on the tube to get there from Helgi’s. My knee injury from Mongolia was playing up, especially after the stair hike in NN! I soldiered on though as there was loads to see.

Helgi have me a link to a good walking tour. When that finished I wandered aimlessly through the city. It was great to loose myself, knowing that a subway station was always nearby to get me home. I spent a lot of time at GUM, a huge shopping complex full of expensive shops punting luxury items. It was in stark contrast to the shops of Mongolia, where toilet paper and deodorant are considered luxury items!!

It’s very tiring but worth it. I need to come back here when I have more time. As usual, I have an open invite from Helgi. Thanks doesn’t even start to cover the generosity, but, er… Thanks!

Helgi and I outside the Kremlin, St Basil’s in the background.

I made it to Moscow later than I wanted, due to heavy traffic of the M7. I was making good time right up to the last 150 km, then it was solid. Being a Sunday everyone was on their way back from their country Dachas. The 2 lane M7 was made into 3 or sometimes 4 lanes by impatient divers. (Just use the dirt at the side of the road!).

I filtered through the traffic for over 100 miles, which was quite tiring. The drivers were pretty good though, often moving over to let me through, and always aware of my presence.

I was given a contact Helgi in Moscow who was expecting me. He’s a great guy who put me up and took me on two guided night rides around Moscow. There is so much to see here! Moscow is a huge city, and all of it is beautiful. The Bolshoi Theatre, St. Basil’s cathedral, Spasskaya clocktower, the Kremlin, Red Square, GYM, the 7 Sister buildings, the Napoleonic war monument, Moscow city, Moscow state university. I could go on!

I’m from the city of Birmingham and riding around a city at night is a special experience. I’ve really missed it! Moscow is exceptionally good though, being on such an impressive scale. As I followed Helgi on his Goldwing it was breathtaking, my bike riding well with no luggage and an empty tank was a bonus! As we stopped at each set of lights Helgi explained where we were and the significance of the buildings we’d seen.

Many people I know would pay good money for that kind of guided tour, it struck me again how lucky I was to find such great people.

Photos will never do this kind of thing justice, you have to be there. But I have been there – and this is an experience I’ll not forget.

Thanks Yuri, Natalia and all the guys in Нижний Новгород. Next stop – Moscow!