I made the last 300 km to Stockholm today no problem. I stayed in a great place last night called Alvstagarden, where there are rows of log cabins and a great view of the lake. Unfortunately it was closed and I had no working phone with me to call them. I slung my hammock under a barn and stayed all by myself. It was quite atmospheric, all of the lights were on and a thick sea mist came in. Like a deserted village in some horror film – lucky I’m not spooked easily!!

As I left in the morning I saw that someone had arrived, so I swung by to say hello. No charge for camping, a very nice lady offered me coffee but I was all geared up so I declined. Next time I’m passing I’ll stay there for sure.

The run in to Stockholm was uneventful, very grey and wet but not cold. I was just thinking that there wasn’t much to see when I passed this gate guardian, so I had to stop to get a better look. It’s a Saab Viggen, an iconic fighter plane from my youth. I remember making models of these, in fact I’m sure there’s one still hanging up in my dad’s loft. The Viggen had a canard wing, which the new Typhoon (eurofighter) also has. Ahead of its time??

I like the concept of canard wings, they effectively make an aircraft stall proof. The idea is that the canard stalls before the main wing, which lowers the nose, which decreases the angle of attack on the main wing to prevent it stalling. Brilliant! In the Viggen the canard was to give it better STOL capability, with the Typhoon it gives greater manoeuvrability. Either way, it was good to finally see one for real up close. I wonder if I’ll ever get to see one in the air??

This bridge was impressive, it even had somewhere to stop and take a photo. I take it all back!!

I found a nice spot for lunch the other day, very pretty. The road I’m on is a main route, so the road itself is good and fast. There are stretches of dual carriageway every few km, so you don’t get stuck behind anyone for long. Unfortunately the scenery isn’t so good, it’s mostly forest.

There’s the odd section with a really good view, particularly as I crossed the various lakes on the bridges today. Sadly none of these stretches had anywhere safe to stop and take a photo. The parking spots tend to be where the view is worst, someone needs to have a word with the planners!

Despite the good road I didn’t make Stockholm today. When I checked the map this morning it was over 750km away, not 500km as I’d first thought. I didn’t get an early start as I got chatting to a nice couple with a new caravan. Before I left I gave the bike a good look over, a few things are starting to look quite worn.

The tyres will last me to Hamburg, where I reckon I can get a set for the best price. I’m planning to fit the new chain and sprockets (which I’ve been carrying since Queensland!) at the same time. However, the front sprocket is quite worn and I’m adjusting the chain almost daily. As long as there is adjustment left and the chain isn’t jumping teeth, then I reckon I should be OK – but I’m keeping my eye on it.

I broke my last split pin adjusting the chain this morning, so I had to go looking for one. The best I could find was an R clip at one of the garages, but it’s going the job OK.

I saw my first ski jump today. It didn’t have any snow on it, but it was still interesting. There’s hardly any room to stop at the bottom and it’s really steep! It was on the edge of a large city, looking a little bit incongruent opposite a traffic island and Burger King!

I hadn’t associated Sweden with ski jumping, but it’s obvious when you think about it. Cold and snowy every year!

I was told everyone here speaks English. I stopped for a chat to the first local I saw to confirm this, but he didn’t say anything. It looks like he’s giving me the finger in the photo, but it is of course ET. His space ship looks bigger on TV!

The museum looked interesting but it was closed. Maybe Sweden is like Finland in that everything is closed? They’re between the summer holiday season and the winter ski season, so the locals in the tourist industry are having a well earned break. Unfortunately that means a lot of coffee shops and campsites are closed. I rode past 8 cafes in the driving rain yesterday, all closed.

It was hard work today so I reckon I’m about due a layover day. I’m about 500km outside of Stockholm, so I’ll make that a target for tomorrow. If I find a reasonable place to stay I’ll have Sunday off and explore the city. The new government of Sweden was sworn in today, maybe I’ll run into some politicians? Let’s hope they don’t change the immigration laws before I leave!!

Welcome to Sweden!

Sweden came up very quickly indeed. I almost feel like I haven’t given Finland a fair crack, but I did spend a few days there. The Finnish scenery was mostly forest, comprised of characteristic low trees. It rained for the first half of the day, which never helps a place to endear itself to me!

Before I left I stopped for lunch at a great cafe. The soup special was just what I needed on a cold wet day. It came with strong coffee and traditional Finnish pancakes for pudding! I was offered free seconds, very generous. The shop also had some great souvenirs, particular to that region of Finland and not made in China. They makes a refreshing change!

A local guy told me it was going to rain for the next 6 hours. Maybe it did, but I was long gone by then. An hour up the road the weather cleared up and I had blue skies for the rest of the day. I stopped to take this photo of the bike by the sign for Sweden. Not particularly eye catching or iconic is it?

Having been to the furthest northern extremity of Europe, I’d be especially disappointed if I didn’t see the northern lights. I hadn’t seen them as of last night due to cloud cover, and I didn’t think that would change either. I’ve never seen them.

I went to the local pub for a quick beer before bedtime and it was clouded over on the walk there. It was fairly dead, save for a random drunk guy who say next to me chatting away. He was quite amusing, like the guy from the fast show who was ‘very, very drunk’. I let him talk for 15 minutes or so before I said I only spoke English. I even recorded it for posterity.

(http://youtu.be/rHyF6wg-V2g if you’re bored).

A couple of ladies from Hull overheard and thought it was hilarious. We chatted a while before walking back, when I spotted the northern lights. Hurrah!! The photo I took is rubbish, so here’s a much better one from the internet. It’s probably copyrighted so don’t tell anyone, OK?

Despite not being the best of shows, judging by photos I’ve seen, it was still very impressive. I stood by my tent for an hour, just watching. Eventually the cold got the best of me and I had to retire. But as life experiences go, I’m happy to say…. Tick!

I was a bit disappointed there was no sign marking the Arctic circle when I crossed into it in Russia. I suppose they’re not geared up for tourism, and the locals just didn’t need to know. Anyway, as I ran south today I made sure I kept looking over my shoulder so I didn’t miss the sign on the Finnish side.

I needn’t have worried. There’s plenty of notice even going south, because the village where Santa Claus lives is there! I stopped briefly in Rovaniemi, the Santa village. The big man himself was there, posing for photos with tourists. It was tempting to get a shot of him on my bike, but I decided he’d best stick to what he knows. (i.e. sleighs!).

The sign for the Arctic circle says it’s 2260 somethings to London, I’m assuming it’s kilometres. That’s really not that far now, considering how far I’ve come already! It’s almost time to get excited about the great British pub, fish and chips and shit weather – but not just yet. Let’s concentrate on the job at hand.

It’s very cold and I was tossing up getting a cabin versus camping. It was a fairly easy decision, camping is €57 cheaper than a cabin. You can buy a lot of beer for that, or dinner even.

Well, I say that but I haven’t actually tried here in Finland yet. I’ll let you know!

Norway has a reputation for being expensive and I’d say that depends. Pizza and coffee was $50. Hamburger and chips was also $50. But if you don’t eat or drunk anything it’s works out fairly cheap!

I’m glad I went and I’d recommend it. It’s a great place if you can afjord it! (Groans).

The camp site is great, everything I need and a great view of the lake. I’m off for a walk into town now (if is open). Let’s hope the pub doesn’t Finnish early! (Ouch).