I’ve just been reading Chip & Ken’s blog, though I think it’s mostly Chip’s. It’s an interesting read for me, as it’s a different take on the shared experiences of the day.

Anyone with an interest in my travels should check it out, it’s well worth a read. Even when our paths diverge, I shall be keeping tabs on them as a point of interest.

You can find their blog here : http://www.rtweastwest.blogspot.com

Chip and Ken at the traditional Korean restaurant table.

There are lies, damned lies and statistics – or so they say. (Again). Well here are my statistics for Korea:

1,368km
7 Regions in 13 Days
1 Brake pad change (Front)
0 Oil Changes
0 Oil Filter Changes
0 Spark Plug Changes
0 Chain Changes
0 Tyre Changes (Front and Rear)
0 New Headlamp Bulbs
0 Punctures
0 Breakdowns
0 Accidents
0 Fights
0 Encounters with the police

I’m loving being able to keep all those zeros, especially the last 5 – long may it continue!

WON1798 / Ltr – Cheapest petrol ($1.79)
WON1819 / Ltr – Most expensive petrol ($1.81)

Total cost – As if I’d know that, what am I – an accountant? (But it was expensive, more then I thought).

As I will be leaving Korea tomorrow, I thought I’d say a few words about the place. It’s been a very interesting few days and I’m glad I decided to come here. I could have had the bike sent directly to Vladivostok, but I really would have missed out.

I’ve seen a lot of a country which is essentially around 60 years old, with most of the infrastructure completed in that time. I’ve also seen temples dating back to the 1600s, saved from the ravages of war. I’ve been impressed with the general efficiency of the place, with the exception of the drainage, which trends to make the cities smell and is a real shame.

I’ve met some very nice people, with the odd grumpy one – but the balance is definitely in favour of the nice! I’ve sampled food which I would never have chosen, or even imagined could exist! Not all of it good, but you have to try it to find it – and I’m much richer for having had that experience.

The language barrier wasn’t a barrier at all. I got by with hand signals, pictionary and Google translate and it was actually good fun! So as I board the ferry tomorrow it will be with mixed feelings. I’ve enjoyed Korea immensely, but I’m definitely ready to leave. To the reserved people of the nation – I salute you.

My new traveling buddies tend to agree with the sentiment, and we all agree….. Bring it on Russia!

The last run in Korea today, not far down to the ferry port of Donghae. We found the ferry terminal so we know exactly where we’re going tomorrow, then checked into the nearest hotel.

All freshened up, I’m going to see if I can find some oil and do an oil change. I’m also going to check the brake pads and adjust the chain. It makes sense to start the next county with everything on the bike sorted. I’ll do a full repack of all my gear too.

This tank we saw yesterday up near the border. We went past the fourth infiltration tunnel but didn’t have time to stop off. With the Korea leg of the journey almost over, I’ve got the afternoon to reflect on it. I’ll try and surmise my feelings for the place in due course.

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Here’s the beach up near the border. Some kind soul put some concrete piles in, just made for singing a hammock from. The wind was amazing, very gusty.

In the morning a truck load of soldiers arrived. I thought they might have come to move is along, but they just waved and walked along the fence. I think they must check it every day for signs of incursion.

I’m not usually a beach fan, but I kind of like this one. It’s certainly atmospheric!

More amazing roads and scenery today. It was all twisty bends climbing up into the mountains, running down the other side or long tunnels in between. The bike sounds fantastic in the tunnels, as Chip and Ken both commented over dinner. Cool!

We crossed the new peace dam, spectacular views worthy of a moment. The dam looks almost complete, so I it won’t be long before the one side gets flooded. A rare chance to see what will be submerged for the next 100 years or so.

Were camping on the beach tonight, next to the barbed wire fencing keeping people from going too far north up the beach. The local restaurant gave us an interesting meal. Fish jerky, some unidentified gelatinous product and a very spicy calamari. Half way through the calamari, I pointed out that there were bones in it. Turns out we were eating chicken’s feet!!

The beer was nice though!

The roads across country today took us very close to the border. This was evident by the numerous checkpoints and army barracks. You can’t get closer to the border as there are no roads running north from here.

In the picture is one of the tank traps we passed. There are lots of these, all looking like they could be deployed immediately should the need arise. The idea is that an explosive charge blows apart the small concrete support for the larger concrete blocks. This large block then falls into the road, making it impossible to pass – even in a tank. Time it right and the tank is immobilised at the same time.

During the war the south Koreans had no answer to the soviet T.38 tanks. Many lives were lost in the struggle to stop them. I think lessons have been learned. Even though the republic has its own tanks, this first line if defence still remains very active.

My agent Wendy mailed to tell me there were two guys arriving in Seoul. They were heading to Vladivostok on the same ferry as me, planning to ride their bikes across to Europe and then the UK. She was going to meet them and would I like to come?

Sure, sounds like fun and I might even get to do some of the ride with company. The hand of fate is a curious thing isn’t it? I went along and met with Chip and Ken, they seem like nice blokes. They’re riding older BMWs, with long range tanks which is important.

We rode well together through Seoul and out to the country yesterday. They’re easy to get along with and don’t seem to mind having me along. I did check that over dinner, as I didn’t want to intrude. At this stage I’ve no idea how long our respective journeys will impinge, but there’s a good chance will be together for a while yet.

And why not!

After we stopped and I had my donut, the sun came out and all was right with the world again! It’s amazing what a huge difference it makes to everything, from the scenery to the people. Everything!

We rode to Chuncheon over some fast dual carriageway, across the hills and around huge lakes on raised roads. The scenery was fantastic, while at the same time being a testament to the Korean infrastructure. Big bridges again, long tunnels and a train line that must be a treat to ride on. I stopped to take a picture of this dam, one of several in the area and no doubt the smallest.

I didn’t have time to fully dry out, but enough to get mostly dry. I’m hoping for a dry start tomorrow at least. Without a cloud in the sky I was all set to wild camp, but I’ve found some traveling buddies and the consensus was a dry room. £20 a night is quite reasonable, and there’s free WiFi.

Definitely a day of two halves today!!